SHARRYLAND
The redemption of the Mondragon geese.
Rebirth of an ancient form of animal husbandry with consequent gastronomic delights.
Where is
What it is and where it is
Mondragon (m 436) is a mountain on the soft ridge that accompanies the Soligo valley. From Conegliano you climb toward Tarzo along the San Boldo Pass road. Stop in the village to visit the Church of the Purification and then continue to Arfanta, the highest municipal hamlet (m 376). In these parts are the headwaters of the Lierza stream, which forms one of the most picturesque valleys in the Treviso area, the scene of an ancient form of farming that has regained confidence in recent decades.
Why it is special
Indeed, passing along these roads you may happen to hear an unusual squawking of geese and then see them moving in flocks on the meadows around a farm. It is a spectacle that surprises and amuses because of the sympathy that these birds invariably arouse. These districts are in fact the epicenter of the revival of the breeding of these court animals, so much so that there is official talk of the 'Mondragon goose' with the seal of a special Slow Food Presidium to promote its future fate.
Not to be missed
Goose is beautiful, but it's also good. On the other hand, we are in the countryside where every form of farming has cooking as its main purpose. In the case of goose, one is spoiled for choice, from first courses in sauce to boiled and roasted meats. Dutiful mention, however, goes to a dish of the most straightforward Veneto tradition: 'risi e bisi con l'oca in onto,' or that risotto all'onda with peas that in the spring someone still enriches with morsels of goose preserved in its fat.
A bit of history
The goose was the object of widespread breeding in the water-rich lands of eastern Veneto where it was raised in the wild on a diet of corn grain. The birds were brought to market in the run-up to November 11, St. Martin's Day and the many fairs that greeted the end of the agricultural year. Goose meat is particular in flavor and richness, precisely why it is suitable for roasting, especially on the spit, still a dish for great occasions.
Curiosities
In the Veneto region, goose farming has found motivation for several centuries in the demand of Jewish communities: the meat of this bird, in fact, offered a valid alternative to that of pork, forbidden to Jews, both in fresh consumption and in preservation. It is a tradition that is reflected today in a refined production of cured meats (breasts, hams and salami, including smoked) and preserves (pâté, ragout).
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