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Wonder
Wonder  }  Architecture

The palace of Colorno, a small Italian Versailles

Visiting the Ducal Palace of Parma and its beautiful Italian garden

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Where is

Emilia-Romagna

Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi, 26, 43052 Parma PR, Italia (0m s.l.m.)

Directions
map

What is it and where is the Reggia di Colorno

An elegant mansion on the Parma stream in the center of town, surrounded by a beautiful Italian garden, it was the summer residence of Maria Luigia of Austria, wife of Napoleon Bonaparte. It is the Ducal Palace of Parma, a grand palace of 400 rooms, only partly visible, which is built around an inner courtyard. It has two facades, one on the main town square and one on the gardens.

Why it is special: wonderful interiors

From the courtyard, a grand staircase leads to the main floor, where the Great Hall, a riot of white stucco, separates the Duke's apartments from those of the Duchess. It is impossible to account for all the rooms, many of which have frescoed ceilings or embroidered Rococo stuccoes. Delightful are the fireplaces, or rather the porcelain stubs decorated in gold, that adorn some of the rooms, just as delightful is also the Chinese parlor, and fascinating is Duke Ferdinand's astronomical observatory.

Next to the Royal Palace of Parma: the Oratory of San Liborio

Connected to the palace is the Oratory of San Liborio, the ducal, 18th-century church with beautiful snow-white marble statues, splendid dome frescoed by Domenico Muzzi, and a curious Ascension of the Virgin in papier-mâché.

Not to be missed: the garden

The real jewel of the palace, absolutely not to be missed, is the garden, partly Italian-style, with hedges pruned in geometric patterns, water features, and pergolas on either side, and partly English-style, with a pond in the center. No entrance fee is required to access it.

A bit of history

The Reggia was founded as a military fortress in the second half of the 1300s, was transformed into a refined stately home by the Sanseverino counts in the 1500s. In the 1600s it passed into the hands of the Farnese family who, with the supervision of architect Ferdinando Galli Bibbiena, gave it its present appearance. It was then in the hands of the Bourbons, who entrusted the French architect Petitot with a further renovation, which earned the palace the nickname of the Italian Versailles. With the Congress of Vienna in 1815 the palace was assigned to Maria Luigia of Austria wife of the deposed Napoleon Bonaparte who further embellished it, restored the gardens and made it her favorite residence.

Fun fact: Maria Luigia of Austria, wife of Napoleon Bonaparte.

Of interest is the figure of Donna Maria Luigia, daughter of the Emperor of Austria and beloved Duchess of Parma, Piacenza and Guastalla; unwillingly forced to marry Napoleon for political reasons, she had a son by him who died young. Although Napoleon loved her dearly, after the retreat from Russia she wanted nothing more of him, refused to follow him to Elba and never answered his letters from St. Helena. She took as her lover Count Neipperg with whom she had two illegitimate children and whom she married only when her husband died. She also had a third husband, the Frenchman de Bombelles, as well as numerous lovers.

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Recommended by
Patrizia Iome

A beautiful palace in which to relive a piece of Italian history, a garden where you can lose yourself in silence and peace, a square with delightful pastel-colored houses.

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