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The Chamber of St. Paul in Parma

In the former Monastery of St. Paul discover the art of Correggio and the story of Abbess Giovanna Piacenza

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Where is

Emilia-Romagna

Strada Macedonio Melloni, 3, 43121 Parma PR, Italia (0m s.l.m.)

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What is it and where is the Camera della Badessa, a masterpiece by Correggio

In Parma, inside the former Monastery of San Paolo, is an absolute masterpiece: the Camera della Badessa, frescoed by Correggio. Welcoming us is a beautiful tree-lined avenue, from which we enter the monastery and the apartments of Giovanna, abbess of the convent in the early 1500s. These are a series of rooms, two of which are sumptuously frescoed. The first, by the Parma painter Alessandro Araldi, has a rich grotesque decoration in which a balustrade opens to the sky from which putti play a curved trumpet. The tour would be completed, beyond the cloister, with the Cella di Santa Caterina, frescoed by Araldi, but the room is currently closed for restoration work in the gardens.

Why it's special: the frescoes in the Abbess's Room.

But the real wonder of the itinerary is the Abbess Chamber, frescoed by Antonio Allegri, known as Correggio, an absolute masterpiece. Upon entering, one has the impression of being outdoors, under a verdant pergola that like an umbrella covers the room. Delightful putti emerge from the porthole prunings; they are real children playing and chasing each other as if on a joyful chase.

Not to be missed. details of the arbor

The impression of being under an umbrella is accentuated by the faux bamboo canes that from the center, where the abbess's coat of arms is painted, open toward the walls, dividing the ceiling into 16 segments, an ingenious use by Correggio of the room's Gothic architecture. The arbor rests on a series of monochrome lunettes in which mock statues of allegorical figures and pagan gods are painted.

Curiosity: lights, shadows and Diana

Interestingly, Correggio took into account the real light coming from the windows; in fact, each figure casts its shadow just as if it were illuminated by that light with an extremely realistic curving effect. On the fireplace is painted Diana the Huntress, a possible portrait of the Abbess.

A little history: who was the abbess of Parma

Fascinating this Abbess Giovanna Piacenza, of noble origin, rich family, highly educated; she became abbess in 1507, at the age of 28, and gathered around her a prestigious circle of intellectuals and artists. To the most famous, Correggio, she entrusted in 1518, the decoration of her salon. Her power is such that she is able to oppose the Pope who wanted to impose a true cloister on the monastery instead of the purely formal one to which Joan was accustomed.

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