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Wonder
Wonder  }  Place of worship

The Olivetan Abbey of Rodengo Saiano

In Franciacorta, elegant monastery of Cluniac origin holds fine works of art

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Where is

Lombardia

Via Brescia, 83, 25050 Rodengo Saiano BS, Italia (0m s.l.m.)

Directions
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A few kilometers from Lake Iseo, in the Brescian countryside, stands this large Olivetan monastery, with its beautiful church, three elegant cloisters and rooms frescoed by great artists. It is easily identified by its expanse and its crenellated bell tower, visible from afar.

Why it is special: the trompe l'oeil

At first glance the church appears simple, with its white gabled facade, but the interior, redone in the eighteenth century, is a riot of frescoes you might not expect. It holds important canvases, one by Moretto and one by Cossali, but most interesting and curious are the faux architecture at the back of the church on the left. You almost want to climb that bright staircase from which angels fly-but it's just a fantastic trompe l'oeil.

Not to be missed: the cloisters

But the wonders are not all here. The convent has no less than three cloisters dating from different eras. The first, still gothic, with its beautiful terracotta decorations, appears simple and cozy. The second, the "big cloister," with double order, green majolica decorations and beautiful wrought-iron pergola in the center, is fully Renaissance. The third, with the cistern in the center, is from the late 16th century and has faux architecture extending its porticoes to infinity. Overlooking the great cloister is the Oven Room, with a curious work, a marble basin on which is depicted Moses saved from the waters. And the other halls? Discover them here.

A bit of history

Founded by the Cluniacs in the 11th century, the monastery passed in the 15th century to the Olivetans, who completely renovated it over the course of three centuries and made it one of the most artistically important complexes in northern Italy. Expropriated in Napoleonic times, the monastery returned to the hands of the Olivetans in 1969 at the behest of Pope Paul VI.

A curious fact: Paul VI's robe.

The Olivetans are strongly grateful to the person who made them return to the place they had so loved and cared for in the past, and this explains a curious fact: a white cassock that belonged to Paul VI himself is kept in the church, where it is an object of veneration. Also, in honor of Paul VI, since 2019 the monks have changed the name of the abbey, which has since been called "Abbazia Olivetana Benedettina Santi Nicola e Paolo VI."

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Recommended by
Patrizia Iome

A little-known place full of charm and steeped in history

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